Tray Design and Construction

Numerous other designs and suggestions for designing, as well as more explicit directions for making various kinds of trays, are to be found in "Studies in Wood," Chapter X. Materials and Measurements. Sweet gum: y^" x 2^4" x 9." Fig. 34. Pen tray and rolling blotter holder. Method of Procedure. (i) Dress up four surfaces to size. (2) Draw center lines lengthwise and crosswise on face. (3) Draw the design on stiff paper, lay it on glass and with a sharp knife-point cut a stencil of one-quarter of it. With this stencil lay out design on working face of board. (4) Make a depth-gage by driving a i" nail into a straight strip of wood, letting the nail project the amount of the depth of the trough, }i". (5) Gouge out trough of tray with i" outside bevel gouge. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 60 and Fig. 82.) Pen Tray 35 ^ '�S ^ ^' "^ ^ Fig. 35. Pen Tray. 36 Elementary IVoodzvorking Finish gouging with twisting motion of gouge, and test depth frequently with depth-gage. Take particular pains at ends. (6) Scrape surface of trough with cabinet scraper. For method of sharpening, see p. 92 "Hand Work in Wood." (7) Sandpaper the trough smooth. (8) Carve the decorations. For simple line work, as in this design, a small gouge or "veining tool" is sufficient. Cut clean with a sharp tool and do not attempt to sandpaper the lines. (9) Shape the ends, first with the chisel ("Hand Work in Wood," pp. 56 and 57), chiseling as smooth as possible, and then use sandpaper on a block. (10) Turning the piece on its face, gouge a cove along the arris of the under side. This may be made into an ogee with the chisel. (11) Scrape smooth, and sandpaper. (12) Rub all over with steel wool (No. cxd) to make as smooth as possible. (13) Oil with boiled linseed oil. (14) Apply several coats of white shellac, rubbing each down with steel wool. (15) French polish according to directions in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 127. VIII. ROLLING BLOTTER HOLDER Directions follow for the design shown in Fig. 34. For other designs and more explicit directions see "Studies in Wood," Chap. XL Materials and Measurements. Sweet gum A. I piece, ^." x 3" x 5" (full). B. I piece, 14" X 3" x 5" (full). C. I piece, i"x i"x2" (full). I dowel, }i". Method of Procedure. (i) The construction is shown in Fig. 36. (2) True up A to size the two larger pieces, and B. (3) Locate the 'center of face of each piece. (4) Bore ^" hole through B and 5/16" A hole through and a 5/16" hole nearly through C. (5) With tap belonging to screw-box cut threads in holes A in and C. (6) With screw-box cut threads on dowel for two inches. (7) Put a little glue in hole of piece C and screw in dowel. (8) Piece C is taken two inches long to prevent splitting while boring. Cut off the surplus half inch at each end of piece. (9) Lay out form on two opposite sides, chisel and gouge sides into shape. (10) Lay out form on these two sides and work the other two into shape, and finally, using also file and sandpaper, work into circular shape and finish.^ (11 ) Gouge the decoration on knob C and on cover B. (12) Lay out curve on edge of A. (13) Saw off surplus with rip- saw and smooth with the plane across the grain, holding the piece in the bench vise, and tilting it with one end projecting above the bench. (13) Finish the edges as at AA, Fig. 36. (14) Sandpaper all parts thoroughly. (15) Finish with oil and shellac as in the case of the pen tray. (16) Fasten a pad of felt on rounded surface of block A by means of thick shellac. (17) Insert blotting paper of proper size. * This knob would better be turned on a lathe if one is available. 38 Elementary Woodworking Fig. 36 Rolling blotter holder. IX. TRINKET BOX The variety of uses to which boxes can be put, as, for ex- ample, gloves, cigars, neckties, stationery, toilet articles, cutlery, not to speak of bird houses and plant boxes, gives this project a constant interest. Other designs and suggestions will be found in "Studies in Wood," Chapter XII. For the variety of joints possible, see "Hand Work in Wood," pp. 187-190. The directions which follow are for a box 3" deep, 4" wide and 7" long, outside dimensions. (Fig. 37.) Materials and Measurextents. Black walnut or mahogany I piece, ^^"x8"x2o". 2 brass butt hinges: i", narrow. 8 flathead brass screws : V^", No. 2. Brads: i", No. 18. Method of Procedure. (i) Cut from the board 2 pieces 3" wide and 12" long, each sufficient for one side and one end. (2) Dress up working face, working edge, one end, the width (2%") and thickness (5/16"). (3) From dressed ends measure 3^". Score all around with knife point and cut out saw groove. (See "Hand Work in Wood," Fig. 91.) Do not saw off yet. (4) Plow rabbets 3/16" deep from face of board and 5/16" wide from edge along one edge of each 12" board. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 79.) (5) On other edge of both boards plow out rabbet 3/16" deep and 3/16" wide. (See Fig. 38.) (6) Saw off pieces 3^" (to be ends of box) and block plane true. Both pieces must be exactly the same size, 5/16" x 2^" X 3^", and all angles square. (7) On both ends of each side piece cut rabbets ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 179, No. 24) with the shoulders 6^" apart, rabbet 3/16" deep, letting surplus project as in Fig. 39. Use knife, back-saw and chisel. (8) Apply a little glue on joints (liquid glue will do), clamp up as in Fig. 40, and nail sides and ends together, locating 40 Elementary IVoodzvorking Fig. 37. Trinket box. Fig. 38. Methods of affixing the top of the box Trinket Box 41 Fig. 39. Rabbeted side of box. brads as in Fig. 41, and driving as in Fig. 40. (9) Nail-set brads, and stop up nail holes with plugs of same kind of wood trimmed to fit and glued in. Set away to dry. (10) When dry, clean up any superfluous glue and dress upper edges perfectly plain. (11) Plane bottom to exact size. Glue and brad it into place. (12) Plane top piece to thickness 5/16". Make edges true and square, but the size slightly larger than necessary. (13) Plow rabbets on all its edges, 3/16" deep, and wide enough so that top will fit into place. ( 14) Glue on top, clamping with hand screws and with protecting boards between. (15) When dry (6 hours) dress off projecting parts. 42 Elementary Woodworking Fig. 40. Method of driving brads in box. ^ V Trinket Box 43 (16) Gage two parallel lines, }i" and %" from top, on sides and ends. (17) Saw box apart between these two lines. (18) Dress these edges to perfect planes, so that they fit exactly. (19) Set the hinges. (For directions, see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 132.) (20) Clean up thoroughly, sanding off the outer arrises ex- cept those where the lid and box meet. (21) Stain with bichromate of potash if wood is mahogany. (See above, p. 21 ) (22) Rub down with steel wool. (23) Coat with Wheeler's Paste Wood Filler (see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 213), No. 7, for mahogany, or No. 10 for black walnut. (24) When dry, touch up carefully with steel wool, shellac and finish like tray. (See p. 36.) (25) Instead of shellac, the box may be well oiled and rubbed often. X. HANGING LANTERN A variety of designs both for hanging lanterns and wall lanterns and lamp screens will be found in "Studies in Wood," Chapter XIII. Only one form of hanging lantern is described here. (See Fig. 43.) Materials and Measurements. Yellow poplar, 5/16" thick: For the corners or stiles: 4 pieces, 5/16" x i" x 8"; 4 pieces, 5/16" X 11/16" X 8". For the cross pieces or rails: 4 pieces, 5/16" x i^" x 4^"; 4 pieces, 5/16" x i%" x 4>^". For the horizontal cross slats: 4 pieces, 5/16" x ^" x 4^". For the muntins (vertical slats) : 8 pieces, 5/16" x ^" x S%"; 2 cleats, 5/16" x q/i6" x 3"; i stretcher, 5/16" x 3" X SH"Manila or brown paper for lining. 4 screw eyes. No. 214^. Copper or brass chains for suspension. Corrugated fasteners, 3/16". Method of Procedure. (i) Dress all these pieces to size. Work with as long pieces as is convenient to plane and then cut to proper lengths. (2) Where there are a number to cut to one length, make a jig by fastening a stop in miter box at proper distance and saw off pieces by that means. If accurately sawn no truing is neces- sary. (3) Dress ends of stiles smooth. (4) Shape rails, upper and lower, with chisel and spoke shave. (5) Fit cross-lap joints of slats. For direc- -- I tions for making this joint see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. (6) Glue together. (7) Make up corners by gluing stiles to- gether, as Fig. 42. (8) When dry dress off outer . SUriaceS. ^. Fig. 42. Cor- ner posts of lantern. Honaina Lantern 45 (9) Nail two slats about 9" long on a flat board 7^" apart, AA as in Fig. 44. (10) Prepare two wedges BB 8" long, 5/16" thick, and tapering from 9/3" wide to a point, and a buffer strip C. m uri=^5 ^ ni in Fig. 43. Hanging lantern. FEB ^B 1913 46 A Elementary Woodworking fi 5 Qh A( |>/V d A.SA A wN 5\ <� u Fig. 44. Method of clamping up the parts. (11) Lay the pieces on one side, outside down, in their proper position in this space. (12) Put in strip C and drive in wedges BB. (13) See that all is square and flat as in Fig. 44. (14) At all joints drive 3/16" corrugated fasteners. (15) Repeat on all sides. (16) Stain with brown oil-stain, and rub well. (17) Cut brown or manila paper and glue on inside with liquid glue. (18) Fasten in place with glue and brads two nar- Hanging Lantern 47 Fig. 45. Drawing of lantern shown in Fig. 43. row cleats 5/16" x 5/16" x 3", as a in Fig. 45. (19) To these cleats nail stretcher b, 3/16" x 3" x 5^". (20) To middle of this stretcher screw a copper candle holder (socket and pan) made as for project IV. (21) If electric light is to be used, fasten this stretcher to the upper rail and attach socket for bulb. (22) Screw four small screw eyes (No. 214^) into each of the upper inside covers and attach four copper or brass chains or wires for suspension. FEB 28 1913 LIBKHKY Ul- UUNOKt^b mill 013 973 739 8