Part II

pedestal at the cross ("Hand Work in Wood," p. GH 160.) (3) Gage the lines EF and (Fig. 15) and connect these points with a fine pencil line to the lower corners as FI and HJ. (4) Taper the two opposite sides so laid out. Fig. 14. Candlestick. (5) Lay out the other two sides in a similar way, as at LJ and MK, and plane to shape. (6) Cut the coves to corre- spond with those of the pedestal. (7) Sandpaper. (8) Glue the column into its place, clamping with handscrew. Candlestick 21 III. The feet. (4 pieces, Ys" x 2" x 2".) (i) Plane up piece B to ^" x 2" x 83/^". (2) Chamfer or cove the arrises on the edges and ends as in Fig. 14. (3) Cut off from both ends, pieces 2" long and bevel the inner ends as in Fig. 14. (4) Chamfer or cove the ends again, cut off two more pieces, and bevel. (5) Sandpaper. (6) Fasten these feet in their proper places with brads (^4" No. 18) and a touch of glue. Fig. 15. Lay-out of column for candlestick. IV. Finish. (i) For staining mahogany make a saturate solution of bichromate of potash. It dissolves readily in hot water. With one part of this and three of water paint the surface and wipe off at once with cotton waste. (2) When dry, rub with steel wool No. 00. (3) Oil with a mixture of one part boiled linseed oil and two parts turpentine. AVipe dry and rub often and hard with a rag and a little oil. If more gloss is desired, wax the surface. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 214.) V. The copper socket and plan.^ (i) Cut with the snips a piece of copper, No. 20 gage, i" 1 For detailed directions for making the copper parts, see "Studies in Wood, Design and Construction," Chapter VII. 22 Elementary Woodworking wide and a little longer than the circumference of the candle (%" diameter). Pound this flat with mallet and file long edges straight and parallel. (2) File end edges with a slight bevel as in Fig. 16. (3) Hammer into a cylinder as shown in Fig. 17. (4) Wrap with binding wire to hold joint tight; touch joint with soldering fluid. (5) Lay a short piece of wire solder inside on joint, and heat over a gas jet. When solder melts rub it into place with a sharp stick. Fig. 16. Ends of strip for socket beveled so as to butt well. Fig. 17. Method of hammering a cylinder out of a strip. (6) For making the pan cut out a square of copper i^" square, snip off the sharp corners, and file edges smooth. (7) Bore two holes in bottom (Fig. 18) and countersink. Candlestick 23 Fig. 18. Plan for candlestick. Fig. 19. Socket and pan wired together for soldering. (8) Wire socket and pan together as in Fig. 19, and solder together. (9) Clean up solder with knife and polish with tripoli. (10) Screw pan to top of column of candlestick. V. TABORET Directions follow for making the simple form shown in Fig. 20. Other projects which involve the joints used in this taboret are foot stools and small tables, both of which are sub- ject to great variety of design. Fig. 20. Taboret. A variety of modifications of the type shown in Fig. 21, as well as suggestions for new designs for this and similar projects. Taboret 25 are to be found in "Studies in Wood, Design and Construc- tion," Chapter VIII. Materials and Measurements. Cypress or chestnut A. 4 pieces, ^" x zV^" x 17". B. 2 pieces, -^" x 2" x 8^". C. 2 pieces, Kt" ^^ 2j/^" x 85^". D. I piece, 34" ^^ 13" ^ 13"16 dowel pins, 5/16" x iVa". 4 brass mending straps, 3^" x 2", No. 60. 12 screws, ^", No. 4. 16 brads, 2 J/2", No. 12. Method of Procedure. I. Dressing up parts. A (i) Plane up four pieces to proper size. (2) To trim ends exactly, hand screw all four together and block plane at one time. (3) Plane up stretchers B and C in like manner. (4) Make cross-lap joints with pieces E and C according to directions given in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. (5) Glue up these joints and hand screw. II. Fitting stretchers to legs. (i) Draw fine pencil line all round each leg 3^^" from one end. (See Fig. 22.) (2) On inside of leg mark points 3/16" from edge. These show location of stretchers. (3) On outside of leg mark points %" from edge. These show location of dowel pins. (4) Mark center lines on edges of stretchers B and C. (Fig. 23.) (5) Draw fine pencil line across center of upper CDE end and down inside and outside of leg as in Fig. 24. A (6) Locate points and B (Fig. 24) for dowels. III. Shaping the legs, (i) Clamp two legs together edge to edge, as in Fig. 25, A and bore y^" hole at halfway through. (2) Reverse and bore through. (3) Repeat on all edges. (4) Draw outlines tangent to these holes. (5) Work out surplus wood with draw-shave and spoke-shave. 26 W Elementary oodworking Fig. 21. Working drawing of taboret. Taboret 27 Fig. 22. Lay-out of joint of lower stretcher with leg. c Fig. 23. Centre lines AB and CD marked on stretchers. Fig. 24. Lay-out of joint of upper stretcher with leg. IV. Assembling frame. (i) Cut 16 dowel pins, 5/16" x i^". (2) Partly point one end with dowel pointer and round up other end as in Fig. 26, with knife and sandpaper, (3) At the points in the legs marked for dowel holes bore through the legs with a No. 40 twist drill. V 28 Elementary Woodzvorking Fig. 25. Method of shaping legs. Taboret 29 (4) Put a little hot glue on each end of stretchers and nail the legs to them with 2Y2" No. 12 brads, allowing heads to project. (5) Clamp all together as in Fig. 248, "Hand Work in Wood," protecting the legs with soft wood blocks. (6) When dry, draw out one brad at a time, bore with 5/16" bit a hole 2" deep. (7) Work glue into the hole with a splinter and drive in a dowel pin leaving the rounded end projecting )/%" . (8) Clean off superfluous glue. (9) Sandpaper, taking pains to touch off all sharp arrises. V. Making and affixing top. (i) Plane up the top to size, 13" x 13". (2) If the piece has to be jointed, follow the directions for a rubbed joint on pages 172-174, "Hand Work in Wood." (3) Lay out the octagon ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 108), saw off corners and dress to size. (4) Chamfer arrises. (5) At extreme ends of each upper stretcher cut out a notch to receive brass mending plates (><" x 2", No. 60). (6) Bore hole in middle of brass plate to receive ^", No. 4 screw and countersink on opposite side from the other coun- tersinks. (7) Screw these into place as in Fig. 21. (8) On the top laid top side down, locate the frame with the grain of the top parallel to one stretcher, and screw frame into place. (9) Stain with an appropriate color, oil with boiled linseed oil, and rub. (to) To stain chestnut a brown color, expose it to ammonia fumes in a closed box for 24 hours, and then oil. VI. MALLET Some of the processes involved in making the mallet, as curved planing, accurate boring, and modeling, are also to be had in the blotter holder (Section VIII). Dimensions are to be seen in Fig. 28. More explicit directions will be found in "Studies in Wood," Chapter IX. Materials and Measurements. Maple: i piece, 2>4" x 25^^" x 5" for head. Hickory: i piece, %" x i^" x 11" for handle. Method of Procedure. I. The head. (i) Plane up working face, working edge, width and thick- ness. (2) With try square and sharp pencil draw fine center line across all sides. (ABC, Fig. 2y.) (3) Locate center of two opposite sides on these lines. P'ig. S7. Maple block for mallet head. (4) Bore ^" hole at these points, boring halfway through from each side. Use ratchet brace and after starting, work with down stroke only. (5) If the holes do not meet exactly, chisel off remaining shoulder with inside bevel gouge (H")- (6) Slightly elongate hole in direction of grain at one surface. (Fig. 29.) (7) Lay out shape of head on broad side (Fig. 30). EC (8) Score, with knife point, the lines for bevels at ends, and BD (Fig. 30). Mallet 31 Fig. 28. Working drawing of mallet. 32 Elementary Woodivorking (9) Lay a piece of waste wood on the bench, the mallet head on this on its side and on this, clamp a square, straight piece of wood, exactly along the scored bevel line, EC, Fig. 30. (10) Saw off surplus with cross-cut saw. Repeat at BD. (11) Plane ends with jack plane cutter well sharpened and set Fig. 29. How the handle hole tapers out. fine. (12) Draw-shave and then plane off across grain the curved outer surface. (13) Chamfer outer arris to avoid splintering. II. The handle. (i) True up the hickory piece to ^" (full) x 1^2" x 11". (2) Lay out plan of handle from center line on both broad sides. Fig. 30. Lay-out of sides of mallet head. (3) Bore }i" hole, i" from hand end through short axis, (4) Rip-saw off waste on edges, starting from both ends. To start on A the tapering cut, clamp on block (Fig. 7,2) and start sawing Mallet 33 Fig. 31. Lay-out for beveled sides (seen from below). Fig. 32. Method of starting a saw on a tapering cut. Fig. 33. Wedge for handle. at B. (5) Save one of the pieces sawn off for wedge to be used later. (6) Spoke-shave to Hnes, keeping piece rectangular, (y) Draw center lines on both edges and on ends. (8) Lay out 45� chamfers along all long arrises. (9) Spoke-shave these chamfers. (10) Fit small end of handle in hole in head. (11) Spokeshave large end to elliptical section. (12) Scrape smooth and sandpaper, (13) Cut saw kerf i" deep at small end parallel with short axis of ellipse at other end. (14) Make wedge as in Fig. 33. (15) Drive handle in head, letting handle project Ys". (16) Dip wedge in glue and drive it into saw kerf. (17) Saw off surplus of wedge, and clean up. (iS) Give head two coats of shellac, and rub down with steel wool. VII. PEN TRAY The process of gouging which is characteristic of the making of a pen tray is, of course, appHcable to trays for other purposes as for comb and brush, pins or cHps, crumbs, trinkets, etc. Directions follow for making the pen tray shown in Fig. 270, "Hand Work in Wood." Plan and cross section of this are shown in Fig. 35. (See also Fig. 34.)