Frame Construction for Scrap Basket

one end perfectly flush (Fig. 4), using 1%" No. 15 brads. (9) In the miter box, saw the bunch as long as the bottom is wide. (10) Measure 5/16" from both ends and lay out as in Fig. 4. (11) Place the bunch in the miter box again and saw A on the outside of lines B. (12) Chisel out the returns (C D. Fig. 4)- Fig. 4. Method of making and joining frame of scrap basket. (13) Take the cleats apart and nail them together, reversing two of them, so as to fit into the returns of the other two. Nail both ways (see Fig. 4). (14) Sandpaper all the pieces with sandpaper folded around a block, touching off all the sharp arrises. IV. Assembling. (i) On one arris of one of the slats lay out the proper spacing for the slats. These are 3/16" apart (see Fig. 5). With Scrap Basket g a sharp pencil transfer this to each edge of the bottom and to A the outside of the frame already made. mere dot is sufficient. (2) Nail the slats to the bottom with brads (%", No. 18), one brad to each slat, and that one just off the center, to make room for the upholstery nail, which will be driven in later to cover it. The ends of the slats are flush with the lower surface of the bottom. Fig. 5. Arrangement of slats. (3) Tack the frame temporarily in place, lY^" from the top of the slats, nailing with brads from the inside of the frame at the corners. (4) Set up the basket, and see that all is square. (5) To have something solid to nail against, cut a stick of wood just the right length to fit snugly between two opposite members of the frame. (6) Nail each slat in its place on the frame, using upholstery nails and a mallet, two rows of upholstery nails at the frame and one row along the bottom. V. The feet. (8 pieces ^;' x %" x 3^"-) (i) Saw off from the remnant (16" long) two pieces y%" thick, }i" wide. (2) Saw each of these into two equal rectangular pieces 7" long. (3 ) From both ends cut out the returns with the back saw and trim with the chisel. (4) Cut each of these pieces in the middle at an angle of 45�, as in Fig. 6, making 8 pieces. (5) On the outside of each, cut out the decoration with a veining tool or a sharp knife point. (6) Chamfer the long outer arris as in A, Fig. 6. (7) Nail these pieces in mitered pairs at the corners 10 Elementary IVoodtvorking of the bottom, letting them project outside of the slats just the width of the chamfer. VI. Finishing. (i) See that all surfaces are clean of finger and pencil marks. (2) x\pply the stain (Bridgeport Wood Finishing Corn- Fig. 6. Feet of scrap basket. pany's Penetrating Oil Stain is recommended) with a brush (i"), 'beginning on the inside. (3^- Wipe each portion before it dries with cotton waste. See that no parts are left unstained. (4) Rub hard the outer surface with cheese cloth. The more rubbing the better the appearance. II. PICTURE FRAME CLAMP The chief new processes involved in this project are boring and perpendicular chiseling. Other projects that involve these fundamental processes are : Pencil holders, a solitaire game, and tool racks. A pair of these arms with the attached blocks, as shown in Fig. 7, make an excellent clamp for gluing together picture frames. In use, they appear as in Fig. 254, "Hand Work in Fig. 7. Picture frame clamp. Wood." Unless they are to be used often, the arms may be made of yellow poplar, but maple will stand harder and longer usage. In any case, the blocks should be made of maple. For more expHcit directions for this project and for suggestions for other similar projects, see "Studies in Wood," Chapter V. 12 Elementarv Woodworking Materials and Measurements. 4 pieces of yellow poplar: V^" x i^A" x i6". 6 pieces of maple: %" x i>4" x 3^". 8 round head screws: i^^" No. 12. Method of Procedure. I. The arms. (i) Dress up the four pieces of yellow poplar to size. (2) Lay out a quarter circle at one end of each piece and trim to shape with perpendicular chiseHng (see "Hand Work in Wood," p. 56, Fig. y2). (3) Finish with spoke-shave ("Hand Work in Wood," Fig. 120). Fig. 8. Method of sawing stop blocks of picture frame vise. (4) Gage center lines from end to end on both broad sides of each piece. (5) Step off with the compass on these center lines the points for the holes, as shown in drawing (Fig. 7). (6) Bore the holes. Note that the hole ly^" from the quadrantal end is %" in diameter. (7) With a ^2" chisel cut out the space between each 7/16" and 14" hole. Take care to make these cuts parallel to sides of piece. II. The blocks. ( 1) Dress up six pieces of maple, %" x i]^" x 3^". (2) Lay out the shape on four of these with an interior 90� angle at both ends. (Fig. 8.) (3) Trim ofit" a little of all the arrises across the thickness. (4) Saw out these angles with back saw, and trim clean with sharp chisel. (5) Locate a point lYz" from one end of each piece in center of broad face. (6) Bore at these points holes for screws Picture Frame Clamp 13 with No. 5 gimlet bit. (7) Screw in round-headed screws, i>^" No. 12, till head is Ji" from surface. (8) In hinge pieces (the other 3^" pieces) bore holes partly through with No. 5 gimlet bit. (9) Slip screws (ij4" No. 12) through hole in quadrantal end of long pieces and screw to hinge pieces. (10) Oil all parts with boiled linseed oil and wipe oflf with cotton waste. III. PICTURE FRAME For a discussion of the subject of picture framing, see "Studies in Wood," Chapter VI. Numerous suggestions for variations and embelHshments will also be found there. Another project involving similar processes is a glass bottomed tea tray. (See "Studies in Wood," Chapter VI.) The directions that follow are for a simple frame for a Japanese print of a crow, as seen in Fig. 9. The size of the print is 9j4" x 13^"- Materials and Measurements. White pine: Ji" x i" x 40". Picture glass: g%" x 13^". Picture backing: li" x 9^4" x I3>^". 2 dozen brads : }i" No. 18. 2 screw eyes, (l^" hole), (Brooks, No. 214^). A little maple veneering 1/28" thick. Manila paper. Picture wire. Method of Procedure. I. Making the members. (i) Taking the wood in two pieces, each 24" long, plane to exact width (i") and thickness (H"), and angles exactly square. (2) Plow a rabbet ^" wide and Yi" deep along one arris, as at A, in Fig. 10. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 79.) (3) To prevent the fence of the plane from rubbing on the bench, block up the piece to be planed on another piece, such as shown in Fig. 11. (4) Cut the miters, making the outside measure of the long members 14%" and of the short members, loj/g"- Place the molding in the miter box as in Fig. 12. (5) Test the opposite members to see that they are of exactly the same length. (6) Test all angles with miter square and try square. iy) If necessary, trim miters with block-plane. Picture Frame 15 Fig. 9. Framcrl Japanese prints. i6 Elementary IV oodworking II. Assembling. (i) Make trial assembly in picture frame damp (Fig. 7) with hand screw and test with try square. A^ k'^ \ If Fig. 10. End view of rabbeted strip. Fig. 11. Device for holding strips when rabbeting. Picture Frame 17 (2) Apply glue to miters, assemble, clamp up, and test for squareness. (3) When dry (after 6 hours), cut saw kerfs as a b in Fig. 13; apply glue to both sides of slip feathers of maple veneering, and insert these in saw kerfs. (4) Trim off surplus of slip feathers with back saw. (5) Clean off glue with chisel. (6) Dress up the front surface and the edges with plane cutter well sharpened and set fine. (7) Sandpaper in the direction of the grain only. / Molding \ M/fer Box Fig. 12. Position of molding in miter box. Ill, Finishing. (i) Stain to proper color and wax. (See "Hand Work in Wood," p. 214.) (2) Cut picture backing to proper size, 9J/2" X 13%"- (3) Cut glass and polish it with Bon Ami soap. (4) Lay frame face down, insert glass, picture and backing, and nail all in place with brads, %" No. 18, using a light hammer. ^5) Apply a thin film of liquid glue to back of frame; dampen the manila paper on one side and stretch over back of frame. When dry, trim edges. (6) Insert screw eyes, 2" from the top edge. (7) Stretch picture wire between screw eyes. i8 Elementary Woodworking Fig. 13. Kerfs cut in corners of picture frame to receive slip-feathers. IV. CANDLESTICK The structural feature of this project is the middle crosslap joint. Other projects that involve this construction are: flower pot stands, with single or double joint, a ring toss game, and the base of a lamp screen. The candlestick itself, however, has many artistic possibilities, suggestions for which will be found in "Studies in Wood, Design and Construction," Chapter V'll. Suggestions and sketches of other projects may also be found there. It is suggested that in order to become familiar with the making of the joint, a practice joint be made first of white pine. The directions which follow are for making the candlestick shown in Fig. 14. Materials and Measurements. Mahogany or black walnut: A. I piece, %" x i^" x 11". B. I piece, 3/s" x 2^3" x 8>^". C. I piece, Tj4" x iV/' x 3". Brads, 34" No. 18. Copper, Gage No. 20: i piece, lys" x i^" ; i piece, i" X3". Method of Procedure. I. The pedestal. A (i) Dress up all surfaces of piece to ^" x i^" x 11" ("Hand Work in Wood," p. 72). (2) From each dressed end saw a piece 5" long, using the back saw. (See "Handwork in Wood," page 66.) (3) Dress the sawn ends smooth and true. (4) Of these pieces make the middle cross-lap joint ac- cording to directions given in "Hand Work in Wood," p. 155. (5) Cut with a block plane the chamfers on the ends of all the pieces and with a chisel the stop chamfers on the sides. (6) With a gouge of the correct curve, cut out the coves along the upper arrises. (7) Glue together the two pieces with hot glue, clamping tight. When dry, clean up and sandpaper. 20 Elementary Woodworking II. The column. (i^>^" x i^>^" x 3".) (i) Dress up the piece C square and true. (2) Mortise one end into the