U 290 DOMESTIC SANITARY DRAINAGE AND PLUMBING. <Callout type="important" title="Important">The sinks should have a lip overflow which cannot choke or become foul.</Callout> The overflow discharges safely into the slop-sink. The upper washing sink is fitted with brass plug and washer, with lead waste pipe into the slop-sink. The water-shoot slop-sink is provided with a flushing rim. The method of trapping and of flushing supply as usual. In fitting up hospitals and other institutions, it is necessary to provide very effective means for cleansing bed-pans and for disposing of slop water. Fig. 233 shows an excellent arrangement, and answers the purpose well. It consists of a special strong fire-clay sink white enamelled inside and buff out, resting on iron brackets built in the wall ; it has a flushing rim and special flushing arrangement actuated by hand or foot, which flushes out the bed-pans thoroughly. The trapping and the cistern arrangement are shown in the illustrations, and fully explain the mode of fixing and of usage. The floor is left clear for washing and sweeping. Figs. 236 and 237 show another modern arrangement of sink for hospital use, with lead trap and out-go ventilation, flushing arrangement washing the interior of sink, and special flush for attaching bed-pans and washing out same thoroughly without danger of splashing. <Callout type="risk" title="Risk">Avoid having sharp-angled corners in troughs to prevent lead linings from buckling up.</Callout> The lead used is generally too thin — 7-lb. and 8-lb. lead being specified where 10-lb. sides and 14-lb. bottoms would be necessary. Avoid therefore, first, the use of light lead for lining. Avoid having sharp-angled corners, but get a hollow filling fitted in all the angles, thus rounding them off and giving the lead some room for expansion and contraction movement, else the linings will soon buckle up in ridges and wear away. When the lead is dressed over the top of the trough it should be covered by a hard-wood capping to preserve the lead from cutting. Avoid the risk of overflow by providing in all troughs abundant escape for any water that can enter them, and avoid any risk of foul air entering through this escape or overflow by the means already described. Avoid any contraction of opening into the waste-pipe, while arranging it so as to prevent escape of spoons, etc., and let the trap be fixed as close as possible to the bottom of the trough, providing a brass cleansing-screw for access to the trap. The trap and waste-pipe one and a half inch or two in inches diameter. Large traps and waste-pipes are insanitary. Fio. 243. — Adams' white glazed trough and stand with drainer. This trough has an inside standing overflow formed in the glazed ware, so that the water may be held if required. Waste is fitted with brass plug and washer. The drainer is of the same material as the trough. In all good laundries earthenware troughs are now used with great advantage. This material is cleaner and more durable than any other; a good arrangement is here illustrated. <Callout type="gear" title="Gear">Lead-lined wooden baths are found in old houses, but have given place to improved forms and more suitable material.</Callout> Cast-iron baths are the best cheap baths, but oxidization must always be expected to appear in time, even through the best japan. White-glass enamelling looks well at first, but is certain to chip where hot water is used, as the iron expands and contracts much more freely than the enamel, and the cost approaches that of the lighter copper baths, which are much better. Japanning, when well done, in three or four coats, stoved after each coat, and hand polished, as tea-trays are polished, has an excellent appearance, does not chip like vitreous enamel, and is cheaper. Cast-iron baths, well painted with a varnish paint, answer very well when a better class cannot be provided. Tiled baths and marble baths are used in mansions and in luxurious Turkish baths, and at hospitals and hydropathic establishments. They are generally very large, and sunk partly or altogether below floor level, some having three or four steps leading into the water, with hand-rails for invalids to hold by. Designing proper arrangements of baths will be found part of the plumber's best work, and well worthy of careful attention and original thought. All high-class bathrooms should have impervious tile floors, and tiled walls up to a height of six feet, the upper portion of walls and ceiling being painted. Paper absorbs moisture too readily, and is unsuitable for bathrooms of high class, but when varnished is frequently used with advantage in ordinary bathrooms. The bathroom should be provided with a means of heating for winter, which can be arranged by a copper coil of pipes, having the hot-water supply circulating through. Towels and sheets can be hung to warm on the coil while the bath is being taken. It is always unsafe to take a hot bath in a cold bathroom. Cast or wrought iron heating coils are unsuitable, as they rust the water of the circulating system, and iron-mould the towels and sheets laid on them. Sometimes the hot-water cistern can be placed in the bathroom, so as to utilize heat in winter, both for warming the room and the bath linen. In summer, of course, there should be an easy way of diverting or encasing the heat, otherwise the bathroom would be too hot. It is a bad practice to employ the domestic hot-water system for any more extended heating arrangement in the house. Bathrooms and lavatories should never be arranged over reception-rooms or bedrooms ; sooner or later some accident may happen to cause widespread ruin to decorations and furniture.
Key Takeaways
- Use lip overflows in sinks to prevent choking or fouling
- Provide flushing arrangements for bed-pans in hospitals
- Avoid sharp corners and provide ample escape for troughs
Practical Tips
- Incorporate overflow mechanisms into your sink designs to ensure proper drainage.
- Use durable materials like earthenware for troughs to prevent breakage, especially when washing delicate items.
- Ensure that all plumbing fixtures are well-ventilated to avoid foul air and odors.
Warnings & Risks
- Avoid using light lead linings in troughs as they can buckle and wear away over time.
- Do not connect bath wastes directly to soil-pipes, especially in large mansions where this is common practice.
- Be cautious of hot water causing damage to enamel surfaces.
Modern Application
While the specific sink designs described in this chapter are outdated, the principles of proper drainage and hygiene remain relevant. Modern plumbers can still learn from these historical practices by understanding the importance of effective waste management and the design elements that promote cleanliness.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What materials were recommended for troughs to prevent breakage?
The chapter recommends using earthenware or lead-lined troughs, with a preference for earthenware due to its cleaner and more durable nature.
Q: How should overflow mechanisms be designed in sinks according to the chapter?
Sinks should have lip overflows that cannot choke or become foul. The overflow should discharge safely into the slop-sink, ensuring proper drainage without obstruction.
Q: What are some safety hazards mentioned for troughs and baths?
The chapter warns against using light lead linings in troughs as they can buckle and wear away over time. Additionally, it cautions against connecting bath wastes directly to soil-pipes, which can cause widespread damage if not properly disconnected.