in the sun those wanted for later use, or else preserve. <Callout type="tip" title="Tip">Turnips should be harvested when of proper size to avoid stringiness.</Callout> TREE PRJMRQSE. See Evening Primrose, TURNIP (Brassica rapa) is a hardy biennial grown for its roots, usually as a spring and fall crop. It is managed much like other root-crops when in the ground, but early planting is desirable for the first crop, for if the plant does not grow quickly and con- <Callout type="warning" title="Warning">Turnips may suffer from heat stress and become stringy.</Callout> tinuously it is likely to be stringy, while it suffers in heat. Proper soil and thinning are necessary in Turnip culture. Varieties are many, depending upon the shape of the roots, which vary from long through short to round and flat. Diseases and pests are sometimes troublesome. Soil. — Should be rich and cool, not recently manured and in fine condition. Distances — Rows a foot apart or more. Thin to stand finally to six to nine inches in the row, according to variety, by two or three thinnings; the pulled plants may be eaten. Depth. — One-half to one inch. THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES Sow in spring as soon as the ground is fit. Sow again in late July for the fall crop. Cultivate until the tops cover the ground. Fertilise with nitrate of soda, 800 pounds per acre in two equal dressings, one at or soon after sowing (keep the nitrate from seed or seedlings!) and the other three or four weeks later. Or dress lightly every week. For a general fertilizer, per acre, <Callout type="important" title="Important">20 pounds of nitrogen, 40 pounds of phosphoric acid, and 40 pounds of potash would be a fair dressing on soils of good character.</Callout> This should be worked into the soil before sowing. Tumip. the flat type. Dig early plants when of proper size. Dig fall crop before the ground freezes. Turnips will live over winter in the ground, but the roots are often injured by freezing. Diseases.— Club-root is the most troublesome; no satisfactory remedies have been found. It will be best not to plant upon infested ground until the disease has died out; or use only those varieties, such as the flat turnips, which grow well cut of, or sit upon, the surface of the ground. TURNIP— UDO 287 Pests. — The root-maggot is the worst. In some soils the pest is so bad that Turnips cannot be grown. Carbon dioxide injected beside the roots will kill the pests, but the process is too expensive and laborious. Dress heavily after sowing with unleached ashes or with tobacco dust. See also Cabbage-maggot treatment. For flea-beetle : Bordeaux, alone or with soap ; kerosene emulsion; arsenites; Paris green with land-plaster, one part to fifty. TURNIP, SWEDISH. See Rutabaga. UDO (Aralia cordata) is a Japanese salad plant of recent introduction by the Department of Agriculture, which will supply both seed and roots. The plant is grown in two varieties as follows: (1) .Kan Udo is grown from seed, and produces shoots much as Asparagus or Sea- Kale, but does this in the fall instead of the spring. Soil. — Mellow loam, rich and deeply dug. Sow in a seed-bed, rich and in good tilth, rows one foot or more apart. Depth about one inch. Thin when well up to three inches in the rows. Transplant at six inches to permanent positions, in rich loam. Distances four feet by eighteen inches. i 288 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES Culture. — Feed well, and keep dear of weeds. Fertilize with a high -grade general mixture. Forcing. — In early September cut down the tops, which will have grown to four to five feet. Earth up the row with light soil, free of stones, to a height of eigh- teen inches. In forty to sixty days shoots will force their way through this, and should be cut at their first appearance. Remove the earth from around them and cut as low as possible, taking care not to injure the smaller shoots. Earth once more and cut the subse- quent shoots when they have grown. Or instead of earthing, cover with boxes and cut the shoots when about twelve inches long. Protection. — When the plants have ceased to bear, level the ground and mulch heavily with earth and straw, or best with several inches of fresh manure with its bedding, so that it shall not heat. Spring treatment. — Remove the mulch. Dig the manure into the ground; or dress heavily with well- rotted manure. Feed with chemicals at intervals throughout the year. Renewal. — A bed of Kan Udo should last for several years, according to its treatment. Renew when the plants show less vigor, from seed. (2) Moyashi Udo. This is propagated from roots only, and is grown for forcing, to yield a winter vege- table. UDO 289 Soil. — Rich garden loam. Plenty of manure and chemicals may be worked in. Distances. — Set the roots four feet by eighteen inches. Depth as before, the top of the root lightly covered with earth. Culture. — Dress occasionally with a good general fertilizer and keep clear of weeds. Forcing. — In the fall, when the tops are killed by frost, lift the roots, shake free of earth, and store by packing in straw away from frost, at a temperature of about 40°. Force when wanted as follows: Make a trench three feet wide and two feet deep; pack in the bottom three inches of well-rotted manure, mixed with good earth. Over this put two inches of good earth, upon which set the roots upright and closely together. Cover the whole with earth, mound- ing it to a foot in height above the ground. Keep the ground watered. Cut the shoots when they appear, in forty to sixty clays, and continue cutting as long as they are produced. Outdoor forcing is possible only in mild climates. Farther north force indoors in a similar manner, under a greenhouse bench, or in boxes in the cellar. The roots are best forced in midwinter. It is likely that ether forcing (see under Rhubarb) will produce a greater yield, but it will exhaust the roots. Forced by the above method, and allowed to become dormant A 290 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES again, the roots may be planted out in spring for use again in the following winter.
Key Takeaways
- Turnips can be used medicinally and are a hardy biennial crop.
- Proper soil preparation, thinning, and fertilization are crucial for successful turnip cultivation.
- Club root is the most troublesome disease affecting turnips.
Practical Tips
- Plant turnips early in spring to avoid heat stress and stringiness.
- Use carbon dioxide or tobacco dust as natural pest control methods.
- For forced growth, use well-rotted manure and keep the ground watered.
Warnings & Risks
- Avoid planting turnips on infested ground where club root is present.
- Be cautious with chemical fertilizers; they can be harmful if not used properly.
Modern Application
While the techniques for growing turnips have evolved, the fundamental principles of soil preparation and pest management remain relevant. Understanding these basics can help modern gardeners ensure a bountiful harvest and effective medicinal use of this versatile vegetable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How should I prepare the soil for planting turnips?
The soil should be rich, cool, and not recently manured. Work in fertilizers like nitrate of soda before sowing to ensure proper growth.
Q: What are some natural methods to control pests on turnips?
Natural methods include using carbon dioxide injections or applying tobacco dust. These can be effective alternatives to chemical pesticides.
Q: How do I know if my turnips are ready for harvest?
Turnips should be harvested when they reach the proper size, as larger ones may become stringy and less palatable.