Complete Text (Part 7)

pot; thin to one plant and harden off before setting out. Sow in the open ground when frosts are past, late in May. Pots over the hills will assist the germination. Sow very thinly in the rows, three to five seeds in the hills. Thin when well up, to two feet or more in the rows, one plant in the hills. Set out when frosts are past. Sowing in seed-beds may be practiced with Cardoon, if the transplanting is carefully done and the plants not checked. Rows one foot apart. Thin plants to four inches. Transplant from seed-bed with care, taking earth with each plant, when about four inches high. CARDOON 67 Culture. — Preserve the soil moisture by cultivation; water in a drought. Fertilize with a general fertilizer, rich in nitrogen, under the seeds in the row or hill; nitrate of soda or liquid manure, after the plants are well up, in small quantities every ten days. Blanching. — When the large outer leaves are eighteen inches or more tall, usually late in the season, gather the whole plant together when dry, and tie the leaves at the tip. Wrap with matting or heavy paper, pack straw or hay around them, and pack earth firmly over the whole, leaving the tips of the leaves still exposed. The plant should be blanched in two weeks or more, and when white and tender should be cut at once, before it rots. The root may also be pulled and eaten. Cardoon should not be allowed to grow too rank and tall, as thorough blanching is difficult. Blanching on a small scale may be done by means of drain-pipes set over the plants after tying. The row culture has the advantage over hill culture that the plants may be ridged up like celery, with less labor, and will stand frost better. Cardoon may be taken up and blanched in trenches, or indoors, if it comes late to blanching size. Winter protection for roots is possible in very equable and mild sections of the country. It is better, however, to eat the thicker parts of the roots, and raise the plants again from seed. 68 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES Blanching in tiorage is practiced with late-maturing plants which might he injured by frost. Having tied them up and partly covered them, as soon as blanching has begun take up the plants with balls of earth, and store close together in a dark cellar, where they will complete their blanching, and will last longer than if blanched out-of-doors. CARROT (Daunts Carota). A biennial plant grown as an annual, and cultivated for its roots. The virtues of the Carrot, especially of the improved varieties, are not generally appi-eciated ; but the short varieties are now widely grown in the East, and in England and France the Carrot is so popular that it is forced under glass. It is very hardy to frost. Varieties are short (early), half-long (medium season) and long (late). The short, blunt varieties are often annual plants, the roots not keeping well when out of the ground; they are used for forcing and for early and late outdoor sowings. The long, pointed, coarse varieties are now used chiefly for stock. Pests and diseases, reported troublesome abroad, are as yet insignificant with us. Soil should be rich, light, not given to bak- ing, and in good tilth. The soil should not have been recently ma- nured except for the short varieties. Distances. — -Rows twelve to eighteen inches apart, according to va- riety. Depth. — One inch or less. Sore, for earliest crop, the short varieties as SOOn as the ground is Fir.W. Short Carrots, used for the fit; for succession, the "' ty and l8te ccops - long and half-long varieties soon after, early in May. June sowings of the half-long varieties may be followed by July sowings of the early kinds; these will not keep well, but the others may be stored for winter. Sow 70 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES always thickly, as germination is uncertain, although a good stand makes hard thinning. Thin, when the plants are well up, to three inches. As the large varie- ties grow they may be thinned again to six inches, and the thinnings eaten. Culture. — Do not let the soil bake over the seeds, which germinate slowly. The seedlings are delicate; cultivate very carefully until the tops cover the ground. Fertilizer. — -The formula of nitro- gen 4 per cent, phosphoric acid (avail- able) 5 per cent, potash 10 per cent, is recommended by Voorhees. Succession. — A constant succession may be maintained from late June until spring by choice of varieties and season of sowing, storing the winter Hair-iont Carrot. Carrots. In mild climates Carrots are sometimes sown in August and wintered in the ground for a spring growth and early picking. In general, however, Carrots will not survive a winter of any severity. Storage. — The late varieties may be stored in pits or in sand in the cellar. Force the early varieties under glass, the tempera- ture from 50 to 60 degrees. CASTOR-OIL— CAULIFLOWER 71 CASTOR-OIL PLANT (Ricinus communis), is a plant seldom grown otherwise than commercially, or else for bedding purposes. Castor-oil is expressed from its seed, the castor- bean. Sow when frosts are past in any good soil ; or start under glass in March or April and set out. Distances. — Three by three feet. The plant is a half-hardy annual. Take the seeds when ripe. CATMINT. See Catnip. CATNIP or Catmint (Nepeta Catarid) is a perennial herb grown for its leaves and tender stems, used in seasoning. No varieties. Sow in ordinary garden soil, when hard frosts are past, thinly, in drills 18 inches or more apart. Depth one inch. Thin to six inches. Pick the leaves and 'shoots when the plants are well established. The whole plant, when in blossom, may be cut down and dried. Renew from seed when the plants show signs of decline. CAULIFLOWER (Brassica oleracea, var. botrytis). A member of the very various cabbage family, probably developed from the broccoli, and grown for its flower- 72 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES stems, which form the thick white "head" of the plant. Cauliflower is difficult to grow, a "fastidious vegetable," "one of those crops in the culture of which the unskilled amateur is liable to stumble upon success, and the more experienced professional to meet with failure." (Greiner, in Cyclopedia of American Horticulture.) Proper soil, a favorable summer (the element of chance), careful cultivation, extermination of pests, and good seed, should give success with Cauliflower. The crop grows well in certain localities (the eastern coast, near Puget Sound, and near the Great Lakes), where it gets the con- ditions of moist and cool air which it requires. Else- where great pains are taken to grow Cauliflower in two crops, one maturing before, and the other heading after the heat of midsummer. For these there is also a choice of varieties, the earlier being best for the first crop. Well handled, even the seedlings of Cauliflower are fairly hardy, while the mature plants will stand severe frosts. The plant, like the cabbage, should be kept growing by means of a constant supply of moisture, or the head will "button," or "bolt." When the heads have formed, the leaves should be tied together over them to keep off the sun or rain. Breaking the leaves down over the head is not thoroughly effective. It is essential to good Cauliflower culture that the cabbage- worms be kept from the plant, or their excreta will ruin the head, however perfect it may otherwise be. Seed for the Cauliflower should be of the very best. Since an CAULIFLOWER 7:! ounce will give two thousand five hundred or more plants, five dollars an ounce is not really expensive. As with cabbage, the old method of fall sowing and wintering the plants in frames is giving way to the method of starting the plants in spring under glass. Varieties are practically two, — early (dwarf) and late. Diseases and pests are sometimes very troublesome. head, the leaves trim Soil should be especially rich, moist but well drained. Almost any quantity of manure (horse manure pre- ferred) may be worked into the soil, and should be supplemented with potash and phosphoric acid. Before setting out put the soil into fine tilth, and keep it so. Bait against cutworms before setting out, as with cabbage. 74 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES Distances. — Rows two to two and one-half feet apart, according to variety. Plants in the row eighteen to twenty-four inches. Or set out or sow in hills, twenty-four to thirty inches each way. Depth one inch in spring, two inches later. Early crop. — Usually from the dwarf or early varieties. Start under glass in early March, or thirty to forty days before the ground will be fit, and prick out once. Keep the plants stocky, but do not stunt, and harden off. Set out when the ground is in the best condition; the plants will need no protection against light frosts. Give nitrate of soda or liquid manure to start them off well. Second crop. — Sow outdoors, in a seed-bed for a quicker start and better care, in drills a foot apart, as soon as the ground is fit. This crop is usually of the large kinds. Sow very thinly, and thin to two inches apart, transplanting the thinnings if necessary. Or sow in hills thirty inches each way, several seeds to a hill, and thin to one. Transplant from seed-bed at about five inches, and give nitrate of soda or liquid manure. Besides these two crops, it is possible to get a late crop of early varieties by sowing in early June. Culture consists in clean hoeing and surface mulch- ing, either with dirt, or, best, with manure. Fertilizer. — Dress with nitrate of soda once or twice soon after transplanting. Tying. — When the heads have formed enough to CAULIFLOWER— CELERIAC 75 begin to push aside the small leaves, tie the larger leaves together over the centers, leaving a few still loose. This is to exclude rain and sun. It will not keep worms out: these should previously have been exterminated, or they will ruin the heads with their droppings. Cut the heads at full size. Diseases are the same as with cabbage, which see. Pests are also much the same as with cabbage. Plant-lice may be fought by insect powders, kerosene emulsion, hot suds, or tobacco in solution. The root- maggot is especially injurious to Cauliflower; treat as with cabbage. As said, worms should be exterminated before the plants head ; if the poisoned resin -lime mixture is used, apply once soon after setting, and once before the heads begin to thrust aside the inner leaves. The poison should not reach the head. CELERIAC, or Turnip-rooted Celery (Aphim grave- olens, var. rapaceum) is a vegetable of the celery family grown for its enlarged root, which when raw or boiled is used in salads and for flavoring, or is cooked as a vegetable. With a celery flavor, and keeping well, it should be better known in America, where it is in de- mand chiefly among the German population. It is grown like celery without the earthing-up (although some growers earth the roots, a simple process) and is placed at less distances. As with celery, transplanting is neces- sary to success. Celeriac is not offered in America in 76 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES c any considerable variety; the kinds vary somewhat in the size and shape of the root. Soil should be, as for celery, deep, moist, and rich ; if possible, it should have been well manured. Distances. — Rows eighteen inches to two feet apart, according to variety; plants in the row, nine inches apart. Depth. — Barely cover the seed, or press it into the ground and sift e ar th over it lightly. Sow early crop un- der glass in early March, and prick out once. Harden off and set out-of-doors when the ground is fit and severe frosts not ex- pected. Give a dressing of nitrogen at this trans- planting. Sow late crop in the seed-bed when the ground is fit, in drills apart as convenient. Sow thinly, barely cover, and keep the ground moist, preferably by shading, until the plants show. CELERIAC— CELERY 77 Transplant or thin at three inches to three inches apart in the rows. At eight inches or more transplant to the above distances, taking care to destroy the tap-root if that is not already done at the first transplanting. Fertilize with nitrate of soda or liquid manure, lightly, after each transplanting, and a few times there- after, ten days apart. Culture. — When the knob-roots are well formed, trim off' the suckers and side roots a few times. Keep the earth from the heart of the plant in cultivating. Earthing around the root in the fall will whiten it. Protection. — With slight protection the plants may be kept in the ground until early winter. Storage. — They may be pulled and the roots stored in sand in the cellar. Diseases and pests are not troublesome. CELERY (Jpium graveolens) is grown chiefly for its blanched stalks. The thick part of the root is some- times used like celeriac, and the tops are used in flavor- ing or are cooked as a vegetable. Celery at its best is one of the finest vegetable delicacies, requiring for its culture, as has been said, only "a very little very great care." Given rich soil, constant moisture, with careful handling at the right times, and results are almost sure to be right. Celery should always be transplanted, once in any case (to destroy the tap-root) and twice if pos- sible. Home gardeners should always raise their own 78 THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES plants, to make sure of their quality and to save ex- jmsure in transportation. The plant is very hardy, and can stand outdoors very late. Celery is invariably blanched, but the blanching is very differently done, ac- cording to the season and to the grower's equipment Fig. W. Celery seedlings. Natural size. and space. Seed should always be of the very best; American -grown seed sometimes gives pithy stalks. Varieties are many, and classify chiefly as to height, color (red tint), and "self- blanching" properties; there is also a Soup Celery, grown entirely for seasoning. Insects are seldom troublesome, diseases occasionally so. SoU should be deep, rich, moist, and in good tilth. Work in manure (ten or fifteen tons per acre) with high-grade commercial fertilizer (six to eight hundred pounds per acre). Commercially, Celery is often grown on bottom-lands, where moisture is certain, and the plants grow very large; but upland-grown Celery is finer CELERY 79 in quality. Celery will grow in any good garden soil, but sandy soils should be heavily dressed with manure. Distances are according to size of varieties and methods of blanching. Sow early crop under glass in February, and cover till the plants appear. Seed should be merely pressed into the soil. Prick out once or twice (cut off tap-root at first transplanting) and keep the plants stocky, if possible without cutting back. Set in the field when the ground is fit, after well hardening off. Sow late crop in a moist seed-bed when the ground is fit. Drills apart as convenient, seed thickly, one- fourth inch deep. Or sow broadcast in the seed-bed and sift earth over the seed. Keep the ground from baking or drying. Treatment of young plants in the seed-bed is entirely according to the scale on which they are raised and the labor which can be devoted to them. Commercially they are usually thinned to three inches or so apart, and kept stocky by cutting off the tops. Wherever possible (in garden culture) the seed-bed plants should first be thinned to about an inch between the plants^ and these transplanted once or twice when large enough to handle, taking pains at the first transplanting to de- stroy the tap-root; the second transplanting should follow the first at no great interval, as soon as the plants are again established. Give light dressings of nitrate of soda or liquid manure. Always keep the THE BOOK OF VEGETABLES earth from the heart of the plant, and the fertilizer away from the tops. Digging trenches for the final setting, and putting manure in the bottom of these, is now not widely practiced in this coun- try, though the method is excellent wherever it can be af- forded. Modern cul- ture sets the plants upon the level ground, taking pains first to make it rich. If set in trenches, these should be well drained, and the plants set on little ridges along the mid- dle, or their hearts will be filled with silt at each heavy rain. fertilizer for Cel- ery, when specially mixed, should \x rich in nitrogen and pot- Fl40. A eood plant or Celery, asn - Experiments trimmed. have snoW n that ni- trate of soda at the rate of four hundred pounds per acre, applied in three equal dressings after the final CELERY 81 setting of the plants, gives great benefit, "equivalent to a gain of $54.01 for every $1 invested in the nitrate of soda.*" (Farmers' Bulletin No. 162.) The New Jersey station recommends two equal dressings three or four weeks apart. Or divide the four hundred pounds into five or six doses in a rainy summer. Methods of blanching are chiefly four : (1) Blanching with Boards. — This is the best method for the summer crop, as earthing is likely to cause rot in summer. Boards are of pine or hemlock, spruce or cypress, one inch thick, one foot wide, twelve feet or more long, dressed on both sides. These are set against the rows of plants, leaning them slightly inward; the boards are held in place by stakes,