that even the beginner will master the difference be- tween high-grade and low-grade fertilizers. Manure is a necessity for successful vegetable gar- dening. The general subject of Barnyard Manure is treated in Farmers 1 Bulletin No. 192. (Farmers 1 Bulle- tins may be obtained free, by applying to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.) For a fall dress- ing fresh manure may be applied, but usually only well-rotted manure, or what the English call 'short' manure, is proper to use in the garden. Good manure is valuable; the man who owns horses or cows will cure his manure carefully under cover, while the man who, <Callout type="gear" title="Manure Management">does not keep stock will be fortunate if he can buy well-cured manure.</Callout> 64 Liquid manure, as spoken of in this book, can be conveniently made by immersing a bag of fresh horse-manure in a tub of water. The product is strong in nitrogen, and is excellent as an application to plants which are expected to make a good stalk and leaf growth. The liquid manure should be applied dilute, and in small quantities; it should be put upon the ground, and never upon the plant itself. Nitrate of soda is much used for the same purpose, should also be sparingly applied, and not upon the plant. It may be strewed upon the ground, to be car- ried to the roots by the rains, or may first be dissolved in water. Nitrate of soda and liquid manure are always best applied in occasional small doses, rather than in larger ones at greater intervals, on account of the danger of over-stimulating the plants, as well as of loss of fertilizer by leaching. For seed-sowing I assume that the practice is as follows. The soil being well pulverized to the depth of a foot or more, the drill is dug to the required depth, the seed is scattered or laid within it at the proper dis- tances, the soil is raked upon the seeds (without dis- turbing them) and made firm by 'pressure (by treading or rolling), and then the row is mulched lightly with loose earth to keep it from baking or drying out. In case the soil is very dry it is well first to fill the furrow xx PREFACE with water, and after this has drained away to scatter in moist but not wet earth before sowing the seed. That the moisture of the ground shall reach the seeds, firming the ground upon them is imperative. A still better method of hand-sowing consists in making the drill deeper than directed, scattering along it some good chemical fertilizer, rich in nitrogen, and covering this with earth before sowing the seed, which direct contact with the chemical would injure. The fertilizer, thus placed, gives the plants the much-desired 'quick start,' with a supply of food for later growth. Many gardeners use seed-drills, which dig the furrow, sow the seed, cover it, and firm the ground, all in one operation, with great economy of time. In a large garden, with long rows, seed-drills are valuable. The row should always be mulched with the rake after sow- ing. If the seed-drill is used, fertilizer cannot be sowed underneath the seed, and the plant must depend upon the food already present in the soil, or upon chemicals scattered alongside the rows. Machines have been made, however, for sowing fertilizers alongside drilled seeds, and although the fertilizer will not be, as best, beneath the plants, it will doubtless benefit them. In sowing in hills the seeds should be a few inches apart, in a little circle, so that when thinned one seed-ling will not pull another up. Make the circle larger or smaller according to the number of plants that are to remain, and to their eventual size. Seed-drills are made to sow seed in hills, but where the time and labor can be spared, hand-sowing is better. xxii PREFACE A seed-bed, here frequently mentioned, is a specially prepared plot of ground, warm, light, 'quick,' well- drained, and in the best possible tilth. It is used for bringing young plants on rapidly. Seed-bed methods should be studied in the handbooks, where also are explained the methods of raising plants under glass. If a gardener possesses nothing more than a small cold- frame he can save himself much time and labor, and can greatly hasten the maturity of many of his plants, while hotbeds and a greenhouse will assist him still more. For transplanting and picking I have given particu- lar directions wherever necessary. Detailed directions for transplanting must be sought in the handbooks; generally it may be said: Move each plant with as large a ball of earth around its roots as possible, and trim off about a third of its top, or even more. Water after setting (the depth may usually be a little deeper than before), firm the earth well, and if the sun is very strong give shade for a day or two when the sun is overhead or while the plants show weakness. A light dose of nitrate of soda or liquid manure after setting will often help to the new start. Mulch at once, and cultivate. The direction : 'when well up?' is here frequently used to indicate the time when plants should be thinned or transplanted. The term is a variable one, and the gardener must develop his judgment in the matter, PREFACE xxiii Generally, for thinning the term means when the young plants have developed three or four true leaves and are growing well. For transplanting, six or more time leaves are usually necessary. <Callout type="important" title="Plant Vigor">A plant that is not vigorous should be given special attention.</Callout> A seed-bed, here frequently mentioned, is a specially prepared plot of ground, warm, light, 'quick,' well- drained, and in the best possible tilth. It is used for bringing young plants on rapidly. Seed-bed methods should be studied in the handbooks, where also are explained the methods of raising plants under glass. If a gardener possesses nothing more than a small cold- frame he can save himself much time and labor, and can greatly hasten the maturity of many of his plants, while hotbeds and a greenhouse will assist him still more. For transplanting and picking I have given particu- lar directions wherever necessary. Detailed directions for transplanting must be sought in the handbooks; generally it may be said: Move each plant with as large a ball of earth around its roots as possible, and trim off about a third of its top, or even more. Water after setting (the depth may usually be a little deeper than before), firm the earth well, and if the sun is very strong give shade for a day or two when the sun is overhead or while the plants show weakness. A light dose of nitrate of soda or liquid manure after setting will often help to the new start. Mulch at once, and cultivate. The direction : 'when well up?' is here frequently used to indicate the time when plants should be thinned or transplanted. The term is a variable one, and the gardener must develop his judgment in the matter, PREFACE xxiii Generally, for thinning the term means when the young plants have developed three or four true leaves and are growing well. For transplanting, six or more time leaves are usually necessary. <Callout type="risk" title="Sun Damage">Plants exposed to strong sunlight may suffer from sunburn.</Callout> A seed-bed, here frequently mentioned, is a specially prepared plot of ground, warm, light, 'quick,' well- drained, and in the best possible tilth. It is used for bringing young plants on rapidly. Seed-bed methods should be studied in the handbooks, where also are explained the methods of raising plants under glass. If a gardener possesses nothing more than a small cold- frame he can save himself much time and labor, and can greatly hasten the maturity of many of his plants, while hotbeds and a greenhouse will assist him still more. For transplanting and picking I have given particu- lar directions wherever necessary. Detailed directions for transplanting must be sought in the handbooks; generally it may be said: Move each plant with as large a ball of earth around its roots as possible, and trim off about a third of its top, or even more. Water after setting (the depth may usually be a little deeper than before), firm the earth well, and if the sun is very strong give shade for a day or two when the sun is overhead or while the plants show weakness. A light dose of nitrate of soda or liquid manure after setting will often help to the new start. Mulch at once, and cultivate. The direction : 'when well up?' is here frequently used to indicate the time when plants should be thinned or transplanted. The term is a variable one, and the gardener must develop his judgment in the matter, PREFACE xxiii Generally, for thinning the term means when the young plants have developed three or four true leaves and are growing well. For transplanting, six or more time leaves are usually necessary. <Callout type="beginner" title="Seed Sowing">Beginners should start with easy-to-grow seeds like radishes or lettuce.</Callout> A seed-bed, here frequently mentioned, is a specially prepared plot of ground, warm, light, 'quick,' well- drained, and in the best possible tilth. It is used for bringing young plants on rapidly. Seed-bed methods should be studied in the handbooks, where also are explained the methods of raising plants under glass. If a gardener possesses nothing more than a small cold- frame he can save himself much time and labor, and can greatly hasten the maturity of many of his plants, while hotbeds and a greenhouse will assist him still more. For transplanting and picking I have given particu- lar directions wherever necessary. Detailed directions for transplanting must be sought in the handbooks; generally it may be said: Move each plant with as large a ball of earth around its roots as possible, and trim off about a third of its top, or even more. Water after setting (the depth may usually be a little deeper than before), firm the earth well, and if the sun is very strong give shade for a day or two when the sun is overhead or while the plants show weakness. A light dose of nitrate of soda or liquid manure after setting will often help to the new start. Mulch at once, and cultivate. The direction : 'when well up?' is here frequently used to indicate the time when plants should be thinned or transplanted. The term is a variable one, and the gardener must develop his judgment in the matter, PREFACE xxiii Generally, for thinning the term means when the young plants have developed three or four true leaves and are growing well. For transplanting, six or more time leaves are usually necessary.
Key Takeaways
- Manure is essential for successful vegetable gardening.
- Liquid manure and nitrate of soda can be used as fertilizers.
- Proper seed-sowing techniques are crucial for plant growth.
Practical Tips
- Use well-cured manure or purchase it from a reliable source to avoid introducing harmful pathogens into your garden.
- Apply liquid manure and nitrate of soda in small, frequent doses to prevent over-stimulating the plants.
- Ensure that seeds are sown at the correct depth and distance for optimal growth.
Warnings & Risks
- Over-applying fertilizers can lead to nutrient runoff and environmental pollution.
- Incorrect seed-sowing techniques can result in poor plant establishment and reduced yields.
- Using unripe or poorly cured manure can damage plants and reduce their vigor.
Modern Application
While the specific methods for manure management and seed sowing described in this chapter may differ from modern practices, the fundamental principles of using organic matter to enrich soil and ensuring proper planting techniques remain crucial. Understanding these basics can help gardeners create healthy, productive gardens that support both food security and ecological sustainability.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How should manure be applied in a vegetable garden?
Manure should be well-rotted or 'short' manure, as it is less likely to burn the plants. It can be applied directly on the soil but not on the plant itself. Liquid manure made from fresh horse-manure can also be used, but it should be diluted and applied sparingly.
Q: What are some signs that a plant needs more fertilizer?
A plant that is not growing well or showing signs of nutrient deficiency may need additional fertilizer. Symptoms include yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or poor fruit production. However, over-fertilization can also cause problems, so it's important to apply fertilizers judiciously.
Q: Can I use liquid manure directly on plants?
No, liquid manure should never be applied directly to the plant itself as it can burn and damage the foliage. It should always be diluted and applied to the soil around the roots.