Introduction

M l�r'S'i.''n',.i, 1 , i , ^' >! '' ' I !,' ilj'/i! Til ill H'l \ tk^i r,*. 1.1! ii '� 1" ia;lii;iinP|Mr-^ . ., - .!!Lii<i!l!i r''Rf;illH I ill Class Book. ^T53 ^llT Gopyiight^I^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 300 WAYS Cook and Sef^ve Shell pish Tei'rapiii Green Turtle Snapper Oysters Oyster Crabs Lobsters Clams Crabs and Shrimps BY H. FRANKLYN HALL Chef Boothby Hotel Company Philadelphia, Pa. PHILADELPHIA, PA., Christian Banner Phint, 1842 Lombard St. f^ TH� LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, One Copy Received ""AY. 13 1901 Copyright entry CUASS^XXc. No COPY^ Copyright, 1901, by H. Frankl> n Hall, Philadelphia, Pa, HutvoDuction To the possessor or reader of this work, I assure you that you will find nothing but plain and simple truths. Any one of the three hundred re- ceipts herein would cost you more than the price of the entire book if separately obtained. Many ladies and gentlemen can testify who have applied to me for the same at Boothby's during the past ten years. I have purposely made them plain and simple, so that not only the lady of the house can understand them, but lo save her annoyance, the butler, housekeeper or cook, not only the proprietor, steward or chef, but the side cook, all of whom hope to become chefs some day as well. I have purposely used the most simple terms in naming the different ingreiiients and in constructing the receipts, so that they would not confuse and annoy, but prove a help and benefit to all who attempt lo use the same. Hoping that your every effort may prove a success, I am very truly yours, H. FRANKLYN HALL, Author. Ibietori^ o! tbe Hutbor as a Chef To show to the readers my wide experience as a chef, I quote the following leading hostelries and cafes that I have been connected with dur- ing my career : Larkin House, Watch Hill, R. I., two seasons ; Dixon House, Westerly, R. I , three years and eleven months ; Stockton House, At- lantic City, N. J.: Congress Hall, Atlantic City, N. J.; Hotel Oceanic, Barnegat, N. J.; Seaside Park Hotel, Seaside Park, N. J.; Beachwood Inn, Jenkintown, Pa., three seasons ; Mansion House, Irvin House, Partridge Bros., two years, Phila- delphia ; steward and manager for J. Arthur, 529 Chestnut street, Philadelphia, three years. Dur- ing the past fifteen years and at present, Chef Boothby Hotel Company, whose restaurants are at 1231-123:3 and 1235 Chestnut street, Philadel- phia. They contain the generally acknowledged largest and finest oyster and shell fish depart- ment in the world. liable of Contents The receipts in this book tell how to prepare, cook, pre- serve and serve the following as it has been prepared and served by your humble servant, the author, to persons and people of most every nationality--from the most elevated to the humble stations in life-- during his service in public life as cook and chef for twenty-nine years : TERRAPIN. 1. Kinds. 2. How to cleanse. 3. How to prepare. 4. How to preserve. 8. Stewed Baltimore Club Style. 9. Croquettes a la Madeira. 10. Vol au vents. 5. Stewed a la Wormely. 11. Puree a 1 Imperial. �6. Stewed a la Maryland. 12. En Timbals. 7. Stewed a la Virginia. 13. How to make timbal shells GREEN TURTLE. How 1. to select. 2. How to prepare. 3. How to preserve. 4- Soup, clear. 5. Soup a 1 Anglaise. 6. Steaks. 7. Cutlets. 8. Farci a la Timbal. A 9. la Poulette. lo. Patti a la Rhine. SNAPPER. How 1. to select. 2. How to cleanse. 3. How to prepare. 4. How to preserve. 8. Soup a 1 Espagnole. 9. Stewed a la Boothby. 10. Stewed a la Maryland. 11. Stewed a la Cream. 5. Soup a la Maryland. 12. Stewed a la Royal. 6. Soup a la Boothby. 13. Patti. 7. Soup a la Cream. 14. Croquettes a la Bordelaise OYSTERS. 1. Kinds. 2. How to serve raw. 3. Broth. 4. Soup. 300 WAYS TO COOK 5- AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 60. Cream Oyster Stew with 80. Fried a la Boothby. fresh Mushrooms. 81. Fried a la Maryland. 61. Cream Oyster Stew with 82. Fried, Baltimore style. Oyster Crabs. 83. Fried, Boston style. 62. Cream Oyster Stew with 84. Fried, New York style. Truffles. 85. Fried Tenderloins. 63. Cream Oyster Stew a la 86. French Fried, plain. Royal. 87. French Fried a la Booth- 64. Cream Oyster Stew a 1 by. Imperial. 88. French Fried, Boston 65. Rissols of Oysters. 66. En Coquelle. style. 89. French Fried with Ba- 67. Escalloped. con. 68. Escalloped Maitre d' 90. French Fried Tender- Hote. loins, Tomato Sauce. 69. En Loaf. 70. En Canopy. 71. En Brochette. 72. Oysters au Gratine a 1 Italienne. A 73. la Bordelaise. 74. Frappe. 91. French Fried a la Cream. 92. French Fried a la Diable. 93. Frizzled. 94. Fricassee. 95. A la Newburgf. 96. Delmonico. A 97. la Foulette. 75. Spiced. 98. Oyster Fie a la Boothby 76. Deviled in Shell. 99. Oyster Fie, Baltimore 77. Deviled, Club House style. Style. 100 . Oyster Pie, Family style. 78. Croquettes. loi . Spiced Oysters. 79. Cutlets. CLAMS 1. Kinds. 2. Raw. 3. Broth. 4. Puree. 5. Bisque. 6. Stewed. 7. Panned. 8. Stewed in Cream. 9. Stewed in Cream with Celery. 10. Chowder, New England style. 300 WAYS TO COOK 11. Chowder a la Boothby. i8. Frilters. 12. Chowder Harlem River 19. Pan Cakes. style. 20. Patti. 13. Clam Bake. 21. Fried. 14. Deviled in Shell 22. Fried Tenderloin. 15. Deviled, Club House 23. Broiled. style. 24. En Brochette. 16. Croquettes. 25. Steamed. 17. Minced on Toast. 26. Roast in Shell. How 1. to select. 2. How to cook. LOBSTE] {. 19. Plain Boiled in Shell, cold with Mayonnaise 3. Puree. Dressing. 4. Bisque. 20. Plain Boiled. Hot, with 5. Stewed, plain. Sauce Piquant. 6. Stewed, Virginia style. 21. Plain Boiled, Hot, with 7. Stewed, New England Sauce Maitre d' Hote. style. 22. Plain Boiled, Hot, with 8. Saute a la Royal. Sauce Bernaise. 9. Saute a 1 Imperial. 23. Deviled Lobster in Shell 10. Saute a la Rhine. 24. Deviled Lobster, Club 11. En Timbal, American House style. style. 12. Fricassee. 13. Curry with Rice. A 14. la Bordelaise. 15. Stewed in Cream. 16. Plain, Boiled in Shell, rold, with Tartar Sauce. 17. Plain Boiled in Shell, cold, with Vinaigrette Sauce. 18. Plain, Boiled in Shell, cold, with Chili Sauce. 25. Lobster Butter. 26. A la Newburg. A 2^]. la Delmonico. 28. A la Boothby. 29. A la Brennon. 30. A la Flockey. A 31. la Russ. 32. Broiled, Live. 33. Broiled, Live, Stuffed. 34. Cutlets, Cream Sauce. 35. Cutlets, Cardinal Sauce. 36. Patti a la Cream. 37. Patti a la Terrapin. AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 38. Claws, French Fried with Bacon. 39- Claws a la Maryland. 40. Claws Braised a la Germain. 41 Lobster Salad. CRABS. I. How to Cook. 2. How to Pick. 3- Puree. 9. Minced on Toast. 10. Cntlets, Sauce a 1 Ar- niande. 4- Salad Mayonnaise Ores- 11. Cakes, Butter Sauce. sing- 12. Patti a la Cream. 5- Salad French Dressing. 13. En Croquette. 6. Salad Bernaise Dres- 14. Modi d' Kane. si"g- 7- Deviled a la Cream. 15- Farci a la Crouton. 16, Butter. Deviled, Baltimore 17. Sandwiches. style. OYSTER CRABS. Pl^in- 9. Saute a la Royal. Salad French Dressing 10. Saute en Case. Salad Mayonnaise Dres- 11. A la Newburg. sing. 12. En Timbal. Stewed in Cream. 13. Farci en Sweetbread. Omelets. 14. Canopy a la Lorenzo. Broiled. 15. In Butter. Patti. A 16. la Cherville. En Coquelle. SHRIMPS. How to Cook and Shell. 5. Broiled, Drawn Butter. Salad. 6. Broiled a la Diable. Blanched in Butter. 7. Butter. Stewed in Cream. 8. Sandwiches. A 1 Armande. A la Lorenzo. Bernaise. SAUCES. 4. Bordelaise. 5. Boston. 6. Bechamel. 3CO WAYS TO COOK 7. Brown or Espagnole. 8. Clam. 9. Crab. ID. Cream. 11. Curry. 12. Devil or Diable. 13. Diplomate. 14. Delmonico. 15. Terrapin. 16. Snapper Dressing. 17. Caramel Dressing. 18. French Dressing. 19. Imperial. 20. Lobster. 21. Mayonnaise Dressing. 22. Madeira. 23. Maitre d' Hote. 24. Newburg. 25. Oyster. 26. Piquant. 27. Royal. 28. Shrimp. 29. Tomato. 30. Tartar. 31. Vinaigrette. AND SERVE SHELL FISH. (Tautton Most persons think that it is not necessary to follow instructions exactly as given in preparing, cooking or serving an article of food. The same is a common but serious mistake. For instance, if you think it does not matter whether you bleed a green turtle five minutes or an hour, you will simply make the mistake that will keep you from ever making the kind of clear green turtle soup containing clear bottle green meat with the soft, smooth, peculiar flavor, which is procured in houses whose cuisine department is under the management of Chefs, who take no chances on hit-or-miss cooking. The receipts in this book are the approved results of years of study, building up and pulling down, by some of the best and most renowned Cliefs who have ever lived. 3CO WAYS TO COOK IRcceipts NO. I.--KINDS OF TERRAPIN TO BE USED IN THE FOLLOWING RECEIPTS. Stewed terrapin, vol au vents and timbals of terrapin. Use salt water or diamond back terrapin only, either counts or scants, providing they are fat. For croquettes or puree, near-by or fresh water will do as well as diamond backs, which only costs about a third as much or less. No part of red legs are fit to use except the eggs. NO. 2.--TO CLEANSE TERRAPIN. Place them in clear running water from twelve to thirty-six hours. NO. 3.--TO PREPARE TERRAPIN. Wash them in luke-warm water, then dip them in scalding hot water several times place them ; one at a time on their back on a table and take a small clean towel and quickly but gently, so as not to tear the flesh, rub all of the outer skin from the head, neck, legs and tail. After all are prepared in the above manner, place them in a pot of boiling water and boil steadily until the legs can be easily separated from the body without any ef- 3 AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 1 fort. It usually takes from thirty to seventy-five minutes to boil terrapin, sometimes a little longer it all depends upon the age and condition of the A terrapin. young fat terrapin w^ill cook in much less time than it takes to cook a young poor ter- rapin or an old terrapin. Alw^ays separate the meat from the shell before the terrapin becomes entirely chilled. If a terrapin has been thor- oughly cleansed according to directions in receipt No. 2, every particle of it except the shell, gall, etc., can be used. Be careful in detaching the liver so as not to break the gall. NO 4 --TO PRESERVE TERRAPIN MEAT FOR AN INDEFINITE TIME. Place it in stone or china-ware, leaving a space of four inches or more betw^een the meat and the top of the vessel containing the ter- rapin. If to be used as stew^ed terrapin a la Mary- land, stewed a la Wormeley, stewed, Baltimore Club style, vol au vents or en timbals, boil the water in which the terrapin has been cooked gen- tly for two hours and skim often. Cool and put in a not with a bunch of parsley, egg shells, cel- ery or celery tops one-half ; gill of L, and P. sauce place on a slow fire and cook until per; fectly clear ; strain through cheese cloth or flan- nel same as consomme. To every pint needed to fill vessel four inches above top of meat, add one half pint of the best Madeira wine and pour over terrapin hot and allow it to cool gently. When making dressing for terrapin use this liquid. If these directions are followed terrapin 14 300 WAYS TO COOK thus preserved will be as sweet in one or twelve months as on the day prepared. If the terrapin is to be used as stewed terrapin, Virginia style or a la cream only, cover well in drawn butter mildly spiced with L. and P. sauce. Cool quick- ly. Will keep very sweet indefinitely in a tem- perature below forty degrees. When making dressing for terrapin use this drawn butter. NO. 5.--STEWED TERRAPIN A LA WORMELY. Place as much terrapin meat as is desired to be used in a silver chafing dish or a tin-lined copper sauce pan. Put same quantity and one-half as much again of terrapin rue or dressing as you have of meat in the same pan ; add Madeira and brandy (best only) to taste. If plain dressed terrapin meat is preserved a la Madeira, add brandy only. Serve in silver tureens, individual or fine china dessert plates and decorate with terrapin eggs and thin sliced truffles. NO. 6.--STEWED TERRAPIN A LA MARYLAND. Follow same directions as in No. 5 in preparing terrapin a la Maryland. Make the dressing a light amber color by using tasteless caramel. Serve in individual silver tureens or fine china dessert plates with cheese patti. NO. 7.-- STEWED TERRAPIN A LA VIRGINIA. Place dressed terrapin meat before cooling in a silver chafing dish or a tin-lined copper sauce pan and add one-eighth of a pound of butter, ten broken oyster crackers, one-half AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 15 pint of cream, one-fouth teaspoonful of chopped parsley to the meat of every full count terrapin or the equivalent thereof; salt and pepper to taste. Saute gently for fifteen minutes and m serve individual silver turerns or fine china dessert plates. NO. S--STEWED TERRA.PIN. BALTIMORE STYLE. Proceed exactly as for terrapin a la Maryland, except that you use Madeira wine only. Serve in cases, with fresh fried Saratoga chips. NO. 9 -^TERRAPIN CROQUETTES. Place one-fourth of a pound of butter in a tin- lined copper saute pan with one-third of a small onion minced very fine ; cook gently for ten min- utes and stir in gently with wooden spoon or pad- dle one-half pound of flour; place on brisk fire and stir continuously until rue rollc away from the bottom sides of saute pan. While stirring the rue pour in gently three gills of sweet cream and one- half pint of Madeira wine ; remove from the fire and stir in the yolks of five eggs well whipped ; one-half teaspoonful of fine chopped parsley and the ground or fine chopped meat of two full counts or four scant terrapins. Any kind of terrapin meat except red legs will do. Grease with melt- ed butter, a large china platter and press out as flat as the dish will admit. Cool quickly in an ice box. if possible, and serve with terrapin dress- ing or Madeira sauce. The above quantity will make thirty full size or sixty one-half size cro- quettes. l6 300 WAYS TO COOK NO. lo.-PRTITE VOL AU-VENTS OF TERRAPIN. Place a petite shell of puff paste in a small soup or dessert plate of fine china or silver, filling the shell with stewed terrapin of any style prepared and placing a slice of trufile on top and lightly sprinkling over the whole a very little chopped parsley. NO. II.-- PUREE A L IMPERIAL OF TERRXPIN. Can be made of any kind of terrapin, even red legs, and this is the only purpose that all of the meat of red legs is fit for. To make puree of ter- rapin take four quarts of the water in which the terrapin was broiled, and place it on a brisk fire with two medium-sized onions chopped ; four celery tops, one bunch of parsley and two pounds of chuck meat of venison ; boil until the whole is reduced to two quarts, and add whatever ter- rapin meat, dressing and shells you have, and boil thirty minutes and take off" and strain through a sieve; place back on the fire and add one pint of port wine ; whip the yolks of eight eggs, two tablespoonfuls of corn starch, and one pint of sweet cream thoroughly pour gently into the terrapin ; broth while boiling, with the left hand, and whip continuously with an egg whip in the right hand; continue to whip for one minute without pausing for a second, and then take off and strain through a pure sieve or what is commonly known to cooks as a china cap. The above will serve twenty -five persons, if made according to receipt. It is very costly and very delicate, and it can be prepared ten or twelve days in advance of service. Age AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 17 benefits it if it is kept in a cold, even tempera- ture. NO. 12.--TERRAPIN EN TIMBAL. Place a lace paper mat in the center of a fine china or small silver plate and a timbal shell in the center of the mat and fill with stewed terrapin. Repeat the above as many times as there are persons to serve. NO. 13.-- HOW TO MAKE TIMBAL SHELLS. Place a small iron pot on a hot fire containing melted lard, four inches deep, Place a timbal iron in hot lard and take one-half a pound of flour and make an ordinary griddle cake batter and add one- half a gill of ale or claret wine ; dip hot timbal iron in the batter and lift it out and quickly place it in the hot lard, allowing it to remain in not longer than one-half a minute; slip shell off of the iron on a clean dry towel, and you have a beau- tiful timbal shell. Repeat until you have the number of shells desired. A good timbal iron can be bought for $1.00. 30O WAYS TO COOK GREEN TUKTLE. NO. I. -HOW TO SELECT GREEN TURTLE. Green turtle of almost any size or age is all A right if thoroughly cooked, but an No. 1 turtle should never weigh more than thirty or thirtyfive pounds, and the skin and bottom shell should be white. Those of a yellowish cast should al- ways be avoided. NO. 2 -HOW TO PREPARE GREEN TURTLE. Lay it on its back with its head toward you. It is better always if some one holds the turtle steady, whilst with your left hand you draw the head toward you by stretching its neck full length. Take a strong sharp knife in the right hand, and with one clean swift stroke, detach the head from the body ; place the turtle in a posi- tion that will allow the blood to flow freely for fifteen or twenty minutes, after which remove the bottom shell with a sharp knife ; remove all of the entrails and giblets except the livers. In removing the livers be careful not to break the gall : then with a sharp knife cut all of the meat from the top shell and lay it in scalding water for about one minute ; rub with a clean coarse towel the legs and all of the flesh containing an outer AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 19 skin until it is all removed ; with a cleaver cut both shells into four or five pieces. Lay in scald- ing water two or three minutes and remove from the water, and while hot peel off with the assist- ance of a knife all of the skin and bristle from the shell ; lay meat and shell in cold salt water for an hour, after which you have well bleached turtle meat, white and green, ready to cook. NO. 3.--TO COOK AND PRESB:RVE TURTLE MEAT. Place a twelve pound turtle in a tin-lined copper or iron pot with fourteen quarts of cold water; one pint can of raw tomatoes, one-fourth cup of & Dregless Lea Perrine Sauce, one stalk of celery, one bunch of parsley, one bunch of pot herbs, six whole cloves, six whole allspice, three whole bay leaves if green, four if dry, f^ur large onions cut up, one medium sized carrot cut up, one-fourth of a lemon, salt and pepper according to taste ; boil gentl}^ but steadily, until the white meat is well done, not over done, as that makes it stringy; allow green meat, most of which is in the shell, to cook until it is soft, and remove every bit of the meat from the shell as soon as it is done. Put all of tlie meat, white and green, in a collander and hold it under a cold water spicket and wash and cool thoroughly. If you are not going to use the meat the same day or for a week or ten days, place it in a stone jar or a large china bowl. Boil turtle bouillon down to ten quarts and strain it through flannel or cheese cloth (three thicknesses\ and pour on meat. Cool quickly in an ice box or 300 WAYS TO COOK refrigerator. It should form ^ a jelly in two or three hours. NO. 4.--CLEAR GREEN TURTLE SOUP. To make clear green turtle soup, take turtle bouillon xjrepared according to receipt No. 3, clear and strain the same as you would consomme, using the white of eggs and shells, only while clearing ; stir often and gently, so as not to allow the egg to catch and hang to the bottom of the pot. To every eight quarts of strained bouillon, add one pint of white wine ; cut turtle meat in one-half inch blocks or dice ; put two tablespoon- fuls in each plate when ready to serv^e with one tablespoonful of sweetbread or calves' brain que- nelles; two slices of truffle and a ladle of bouillon, and you will be serving the second finest soup ever produced by man or woman. NO. 5.--GREEN TURTLE A L ANGLAISE. Put one pound of chopped bacon, one-half pound of butter, two medium-sized chopped onions, handful of chopped celery tops, bunch of pot herbs, one-fourth cup of L. and P. Sauce, six whole cloves, six whole allspice, three bay leaves, one tablespoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of red pepper and one-half teaspoonful of dry mustard in a tin -lined pot. Place over a brisk fire and cook one-half hour ; stir often, add one quart of raw tomatoes ; cook one-half hour longer and add one-half pound of dry flour ; cook twenty minutes and add four quarts of consomme or strong bouillon ; cook one hour and take off and strain through a pure sieve or a china cap ; pour ANB SERVE SHELL FISH. in a clean tin -lined pot and place on the fire and add the juice of one lemon and one pint of sweet Madeira wine. Cook ten minutes and remove from the fire and put one tablespoonful of diced turtle meat, one-half tablespoonful of quenelles, which is made of calf's brains or sweetbreads, one-half teaspoonful of chopped parsley and two thin slices of truffles in each soup plate. Pour one ladle of soup in plate and serve, Follow these directions carefully and you will have made the third finest body soup known to man. If kept in a cool even temperature it will retain its purity and sweetness for weeks, so that which is not used at first service need not be thrown away. NO. 6.--TURTLE STEAKS. Turtle Steaks are cut from the thick portions of the white meat of the turtle, either the shoulder or breast, and should be cut cross-grain and broiled always. Serve with either drawn butter, Rhine wine sauce, Madeira sauce or Bordelaise sauce. NO. 7.--TURTLE CUTLETS. Hash fine the parts of white meat of the turtle that are too stringy for other purposes, and stir into a rue the same as for croquettes. Cool, roll out and shape to fancy. Fry in boiling lard and serve with Madeira, Bordelaise or Royal sauce. NO. 8--FARCI TURTLE A LA TIMBAL. Hash stringy white meat of turtle, blanched -sweetbreads cut in one-fourth inch blocks, sliced mushrooms, chopped parsley, pepper, salt and grated nutmeg to taste ; stir in heavy Royal sauce 300 WAYS TO COOK sufficient to bold together all of the ingredients, and fill it in timbal shells and sprinkle a little butter over the top and brown in a quick oven. Serve immediately. NO. 9. TURTLE A LA POULETTE. Cut in inch blocks of white and green meat of turtle, about two tablespoonfuls for each person to be served, and braise about five minutes in butter ; add about one-half a gill of white wine, and one gill of sweet cream, with the yolks of two well beaten eggs whipped in the cream. Cook about six minutes. Stir constantly while cooking and serve in a small soup plate or silver tureen with crouton on top, covered with chopped hard-boiled eggs and parsley NO. 10.--TURTLE PATTI A LA RHINE. Cut turtle meat up in inch blocks, saute in Royal sauce. Heat patti shells and place them on small plates and fill shells with saute turtle. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the top and serve. NOTE.--HOW TO MAKE QUENELLES. Blanch two sweetbreads, or one set of calves brains, chop very fine. Place in a china bowl with two ounces of flour, yolks of three eggs, onehalf teaspoonful of salt, pinch of red or white pepper, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley ; mix well together until all is rolled into a stiff paste ; dust bread board or end of table with flour ; roll out into long strips with the hands, and with a sharp knife cut up in sizes to suit fancy. One- AND SERVE SHELL FISH. 23 half size of meat is best, as they double their original size in the cooking. Dust well with flour and drop in boiling water or clarified chicken broth. Cook fifteen minutes and strain in a collander and